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Facial Postiche.

Beard Making Process.

 

Taking measurements.

There are 3 measurements you need to take when making a beard, these measurements are for refrence, the temeplate is what you will use to create your piece from. In europe measurements are taken in centremetres however be aware that when in the USA they use inches.

Measurement 1-Hair line straight down to the jaw line

Measurement 2-Jaw line (from the bottom of the ear) to the middle of the chin

Measurement 3- Middle underside of the bottom lip follow th econtours of the chin to the adams apple.

Creating the foundation (Blocking).

 

Attatching Tempalte to the block.

Cellotape the template to the wooden block and stuff with tissue paper or kitchen roll so you have a firm but still pushable so it is workable over.

Note- Your piece of lace needs to be big enough to comfortablly fit from ear to ear.

 

1. Point the lace (horizontal bars must sit straight across the face as seen in the diagram below) into place above the lip, just where the ear would be on a person. 

2. From a side point pull the lace so it is flat and slightly taught so it confortablly sits against the block and put in a point.Repeat on the other side.

3. place your finger on the centre of the chin and move downwards to flatten and then secure with a point.

4.Fold one side of the lace around the chin towards the centre to create a dart, you may need more than one in each side but the material will guide you on how it naturally falls and pin to hold in place (only use small pins as you dont want to rip the lace)

5. Use the method for whipping as stated earlier, make sure you use inviable thread.

Whipping.

 

Whipping is a technique used for making darts that allow a piece of postive to fit around a curved edge such as the chin, a dart must never sit on the edge (hairline) if it did then the camera would pick up the thread which gives away its realistic appearance. Using inviable thread for this is important as it will not be picked up by the camera, if used for TV/film, therefore disgusing the fact it is a piece of postiche.

 

Equipment needed; Knotting hook & handle, craddle, wooden block, block points, hammer,plyers, invisable nylon thread, towel.

1. Set up a craddle with a towel covering it and place your wooden block in so it sits without moving around.

2. attatch one point in the lace.

3. Then twist the material to make a triangle 

4. Apply points round the taught lace to secure it, you must use at least 8-10 points must be used for a good secure hold.

5. Cut a arms lenth of the nylon thread. To learn this skill we used black nylon thread so we could see what we were doing however when whipping for a piece off postiche you must use invisable thread.

6. Starting at the base of the triangle knot every 5mm following the egde of the triangle go through all layers of net for a good binding of the lace. When knotting have the block sitting in the craddle so when you knot you are going up the block away from you for ease. When you get to the point turn the block around as to position it correctly to knot upwards.

7. Once you have knotted the 3 side of the triangle knot over the top of the first on to secure the thread and cut off any left over thread.

Evaluation.

 

 

I found this very easy to do I enjoy knotting and am at an okay speed when working with this technique from practising alot last year. Also using a darker thread to learnthe whipping technique made it alot easier because I could see the thread, as I wasnt struggling to find the holes it mad elearning this process very quick and easy. 

 

However when I moved onto the invisable thread it became alot tricker, I found myself catching the lace alot more as it wasnt clear wher the thread was which tore the holes in some places. As you can see from the images on the left they are both a neat triangle but there are improvements to be made; tightness of the knots  could be a little more similar especially in the black thread you can see some have been pulled tighter than others. Over all I enjoyed this technique and found that it was progressing from our basic knotting skills which I have enjoyed learning.

 

 

 

Template Making.

Preperation- on the morning of the template making ask you model to not shave this way you can use there natural beard/stubble shape to guide you when drawing onto the template. If posible ask them to bring images of them with a beard if they have any for rerfences; this will help you idenify colours and any growth patterns.

 

PLEASE NOTE- you may need a assistant to help speed up the time and ease of this template making.

 

1. Cover the area in cling film covering the mouth and hold taught by the ears. HEALTH AND SAFETY- make sure the client is able to breathe through there nose as you will be covering their mouth, if they have a cold not allowing them to breathe then they will be unable to be your model.

2. Layer all over the cling film with cellotape.

3. Draw your desired beard on top with a permenant marker.

4. Cellotape over where you have just drawn your outline to prevent the marker from smudging.

5. let go at the back of the head and remove from the faceby just pulling it away.

Top Left- Padding the template

Top Centre- Attaching it to the wooden block

Top Right- Profile view of template

Mid Left- Placing the net over the template horizonal bars lined up

Mid Right- Points postion on the side

 

 

Above Center- Side view of the finished dart

Left- Side view of the other finished dart

Right- Fished darts straight on

Bottom Left- Finished darts fit against the face side view

Bottom Centre-Finished darts fit against the face front view

Bottom Right- Finished darts fit against the face opposite side view

Note- As lace is expensive and this was to practise the technique tutu net has been used as the foundation and I have used black nylon as a demonstration purpose only, for an actual piece you would use lace and invisable nylone thread.

 

Evaluation.

 

It was good to expand our knowledege of whipping and how they are used to fit postiche/wigs work to a rounded edge, I felt during this class I have developed my knotting skills alot which is allowing me to push myself when designing as I found I am not limiting myself I want to try beards, moving hairline etc which overall is expanding my knowledge base and making me a better artist. I felt quiet confortable creating the template even though it is my first beard one I used my knowledge from the bald cap and moustache templates to guide me on what I needed to do.

 

Blocking the net was where I struggled becasue the holes in the tutu net strecthed it was very dificult to keep it in one place as it always stretched further than you wanted it to, the size of the holes meant they easily fell out of the points  that were to hold it down. The easiest soltuion I found was to hold the net with masking tape whilst I used alot of point (much more than usual) the folded the excess net over and pointed that down too. Obviously I could do this as it was a durable tutu net however I would never tape down lace it is too fragile and would tear.

 

I found whipping the darts was alot easier when fitted to a template as you had more guidelines of where they should sit. As you can see in the images the fit of the net was quiet good around the chin it sat snuggly against it chin however on the right side of her chin the dart is a little too large is comes down onto her neck and sits at a slightly funny angle, this hasnt affected the fit as a whole though.

Melissa's Measurements

Measurement 1- 7cm

Measurement 2- 13cm

Measurment 3- 10cm

Measurement 1

Measurement 2

Measurement 3

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