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Wigs.

Refronting a hard front wig with lace.

 

This method is a cost effective way of creating a lace front wig that could be used for a one off production or piece of work. If you buy two of the same wig sthen you can deconstruct one  to fill in the gaps (between wefts) or to make a hank of hair then to be used for knotting.

 

Method.

 

1- On a block (either mallable or wooden) cover then block with cling film and secure in place with tape to protect the block.

 

2- Draw the persons real hair line, using the head template made.

 

3- Then draw the new hairline on in a different colour- this allows you to at a glance knowing which one is which making the risk of using the wrong one down to a minimum.

 

4- Hold the lace so it is taught between both hair lines and point above the new hair line and below the old in the centre to hold inplace (as the hair grows straight bakc of slightly off to one side it doesnt matter which was the bars angle for knotting)

 

5- Pull the lace so its taught and flat between the two lines folloeing to the end of these lines (behind the ears) and point into place, repeat on the otehr side.

 

6- Create your dartsand pin roughly, these must all fall past the hairline.

 

7- With a needle and thread loosing tacking along the new hair line, this will act as your guide when knotting, and tie loosely at one end.

 

8- Place the wig onto the block in the correct position from the hairline (which must be around 2cm for a natural fade to be created) and pin along the edge to mark out where it will sit and remove the wig from the block.

 

9- Whip the darts, only the darts between the new hairline and the pinned wig line will need to be whipped.

 

10- Place the wig back into a position stretching it to how it will need to sit and pin to the lace (use lots of pin to help hold the stretch in.

 

11- Remove the joing lace and wig from the block and sew the lace and wig together (obivoulsy past the hard front wig seam so that it cannot be seen) Sewing along two seams will allow as a back up incase one breaks.

 

12- Place it back onto the block and secure for knotting

 

13- Bulk knot to start with until the hair line is starting to be miniced then single knot then progress to sepradic knotting- using this technique you will create a natural looking hair line rather than a block unatural one in which a hard front wig has.

 

 

 

Dressing out.

As we are using synthetic wigs once the hair has been set and dressed out once it is then very hard to redress/style. Using products such as hairspray will help

reduce friction allowing you to style it easier however you will need to spray from a further distance than usual as synthetic hair is plastic and if product is sprayed too close to it then it will bead and not coat the strands.

Types of wigs.

 

Weft wigs.

 

Stretch weft wigs are the sort you find in costume shops and are inexpesive to buy as they are mass produced by machines. These can be bought in a variety of colour, lenghts and styles normally made with synthetic hair which means they cannot have heated appliances used on them, they have to be worn in the style that they have been made otherwise wefts and seams will be visiable.

 

Combination weft wigs are a cross between made to order knotted wigs and simple weft wigs, the top section is hand tied and then the under layers are weft. These wigs still have the stretchiness of machine made weft wigs so they are also one fits all. This style of wig tends to be used in fashion as partings and hair lines are more realistic. These in price range from the mid to th eexpensive depending on the size of the hand tied section and the hair used.

 

Disadvantages to weft wigs

                          - Can make your head sweat/feel over heated

                          - Can be heavy (the thicker wefts)

                          - Not made specifically to your head so the fit may be too loose or tight

                          - They have a very short lifespan comapre to real hair wigs

                          - Some of the coloured hair will fade under strong lights especially if this

                             is repeated

 

 

Knotted Wigs.

 

Generally speaking these are usually made to order so will fit your models head perfectly. they can be created with and colour/cut/length/style to suit your design because of this they are very expensive. However there lifespan is very long if they are looked after and refronting them will make them last even longer so would be good for theatre productions of films.

 

Construction.

Being custom wigs, knotted wigs can have hand-sewn foundations or machine-swen vergatable (veg) net foundations with a galloon (silk lace ribbon) base; they can also have a hair lace front that will allow the wig-maker to knot an actual hairline for the atrical use. The lace is so dine that twith makeup it bcomes invisable to all but the closest scrutiny. (Debreceni, 2013, p314)

Preping hair.

 

Weft wig - brush all the hair backwards away from the hair line, put over a wig cap or tights cut up and tied at the end tuck any excess into the cap 

 

Wigs with a parting - Match the parting of the wig with the natural hair and then create anchor points by the ears and at the nape of the neck then wrap the rest as you would for a bald cap (without using gel) you want to use minimal grips.

                                                                                                           OR

You can take sections of the hair and pincurl them, repeating this technique all over. You may find older actress' request this method as they find it more confortable and like the result once it is taken out as it is less time (no gel = no washing the hair)

 

Wig over a bald cap.- You would wrap the hair as you would for a bald cap, then apply your bald cap and the wig over the top. This is a technique that can be used to move the hairline or to create a part balding head. 

 

Problem- Nothing to grip onto causing the wig to move

Solution - You can attach lace tabs into the balc cap and corrosponding tabs on the wig that canbe glued together (this technique could                      also be used on a bald actor)

                                                                                                            OR

                   Create pincurls at either side of the neck and cross grip this can act as an anchor point to pin through the wig and bald cap to                      keep it in place

Removal & Storage.

 

Weft wigs - You need to remove all pins then pull the back over the head to the front gently. To store place on a mallable block to keep its shape if being used again.

 

Lace front wigs - Soak a brush is the adhesive remover for the product you used to glue it down and press along the hairline to loosen the glue, once it has peeled away remove from the back to the front as for a weft wig. Clean the lace and store on a wig form.

Application.

 

Weft Wigs - Stand behind your model and place the front  centre of the wig onto their foreheadand ask them to hold it in place as you pull it over the head into place. Adjust as you need to and secure at the anchor points with pins for a firm hold.

 

Lace Wigs - Apply the wig as described above then using an adhesive glue down the lace, this will need to be done prior to makeup being applied. allow to go tacky then press the lace down and allow to dry. Then powder to take any shone away before adding makeup.

Inside of a weft wig.

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