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Silicone painting.

Products.

 

Paint base:

Evo stick or any other bathroom sealer

Pro gel 10 (parts A & B)

 

Solvent:

Lighter Fluid

Naphtha

 

Pigments:

silicone base either powder mixed with silicone oil (recommended) or dry 

Oil paints, however these over time bleed through

 

Making the silicone paints.

 

1. Dissolve your chosen paint base and dissovle it in the solution so a runny consitancy is created

 

2. Split up into individual shot glass/paint try cups, then add a small dot of pigment in a mix until a transparent verison of the desired colour is formed

 

Pigment Pot.

When you create a silicone piece if you take some of the pigment made a store it in a sealed pot you can use it then to repair any holes or you can use it as a base and alter the shade for shadows/highlghts for a natural tone gradiented look.

Painting the piece.

 

1. Clean off the piece to remve and dirt or oil from handling it, you can use IPA if not encased in cap plastic or n-heptain.

 

2. Start by adding in the shadows, Use blue fo rthe deepest then green for the mid depth shadows. use reference images as what you think they are coloured like is most likey wrong. These depths of shaddows will naturally allow the piece to look like you have applied a lighter highlighting colour on top.

 

3. With a old scuffed up brush stipple red onto the piece to break up the skin, add cappliaries.

 

4. To produce blemishes such as freackles use the flicking technique learnt in dramatic contacts.

This is an example piece; the left side has had the shadows painted onto it where as th eright hasn't. You can really see how much a few layers of transparent colour can chnage the depth of a piece, this makes it look alot more realistic. I really like this technique and could find it really usefull in my furture projects.

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