Professional Make-up Project
Kate Garrett
Wig Construction Research.
Lace Front Wigs.
* Used alot in stage, TV and film.
* The front section of the wig material is lace making it almost invisable to the eye when worn.
* Easily able to reproduce a natural looking hairline.
* Very natural, easily styled and authentic looking.
Alternate uses for lace front wigs; many pacients who have suffered from cancer or another illness that causes the loss of hair choose to wear wigs to replicate the hair they used to have. It can be used as a confidence booster used on a daily basis.
The fitting.
Creating the template is the same process as when making one for a bald cap, the only exception is there are different measurements to be made. These can be in inches (usually used in america) or centermetres (Europe).
Importance.
Getting this right will ensure you construct a bespoke wig that fits well to the contours of your models/clients head. This makes it confortable and easy to wear for long periods of time.
Note: If a colour match is required you wil need to cut a sample of hair.
Below is a example of a wig consulation form. (Image 2.0 - Wig Consultation Form)
Construction.
Three materials to the construction; the lace at the front, the foundation net around the middle and back and caul net around the crown.
Foundation net.
This is the first to be blocked out with the material, it is around 2 inches in width.
1. fold your cut out oblong shaped material in half to find the mid point and attatch to the centre point of the front foundation line. Then tac down using points evenly either side following this line until it meets the ear.
2. Tac at the mid point along the back line keeping the material flat against the head.
3. Lie the material flat against the foundation section to meet at the back of the block over lapping slightly, then tac in place along the bottom side.
4. Go back up to the top of the block and tac down following the guide line at the back (by the caul net), pin any darts required into place. The fit of this net should be smooth, flat and fitted to the block.
5. Whip together any darts and whip the two back centre seams.
6. Hem along the from the back/top of the ear following the hairline down to the nape across and back to the the other ear. To hem you need to fold upwards the excess material twice to create a thin tube that is then whipped to the foundation net against the head to secure in place. This is to add strength.
7. Cut away any excess neatly to the corrosponding lines.
Images from Rachel's Demonstration.
Caul Net.
This material has a stretch to it, when applying to the block you want it to stretch length ways not width. The holes should sit horozontally across the crown.
1. As with the foundation net fold in half find the mid point line it up and tack over lapping 1/2 - 1 inch at the north, south, east and west points.
2. Darts should be easily formed to confrom the net to the head, tack in place then whip them.
3. One hole from the edge of where the caul net over lapsthe foundation whip the two nets together, then repeat on the overlapping inch and whip all the way round for added security.
4. Cut close to the second (outer) wipping for a neat and tidy finsih.
Lace.
Only attatch this to the block once all the other parts have been constructed and whipped to minimise the amount of damage to the lace front.
1. As done with all the others find the mid point and tac down the two side far front any of the visable lace front as not to mark it. The lace must sit flat against the hairline.
2. Tac down so it is firm to work on not close to any of the lace that will be noticeable.
3. Create any darts that are needed, they cannot touch the hairline as this will ruin the illustion and it will be noticed as a wig. Whip the darts together.
4. Whip together the lace and foundation one line against where they over lap and one half an inch back from this line for security. Cut away the excess over lapping the foundation net.
The construction is now complete and is ready for knotting, as this is a foundation for a non-parted wig you would knot the hair at the front backwards so that it would form a natural hair line.
Parted wig construction.
For parting the construction is the same except two parts:
1. You will cut the foundation net so it curves around the parting
2. The lace must sit flat against the parting otherwise it will not sit flat.
When knotting parted wig you will need consider how the hair needs to sit and knott in a direction that is suitable for this style. It will also need to become sparse asyou work in (as you would do for a hairline) to avoid it being clumpy and unrealistic looking.
